Southern Red Sea Exploration.

So finally on dry land and I am back in the office where I find some time to reflect and evaluate upon the “exploration trip” that my colleague Shaun and myself had recently undertaken.

I use the term “exploration” for lack of better terminology, but I feel an explanation is in order as “exploration” also is not really the correct word!   The term “Exploration” would suggest to the reader that we were finding new dive locations, new reef systems, when simply this was not the case. We were in fact visiting very well know reef areas but the “exploration” part was specific to the depth that we were diving and the area of the reef we were diving.

 Emperor Asmaa

During my very first years working in Egypt I had the pleasure and opportunity to visit most dive locations within the Egyptian side of the Red Sea, from as far north as the straights of Tiran down the southern reef systems of Elba which lie on the Sudanese border and everything and anything in between. These were the days where as a safari guide you were not “fixed” to any single route, you were moved around from boat to boat, route to route each week. What this created was a generation of safari guides which a huge expanse of diving knowledge and experience of the entire Red Sea. Sometimes I miss those days, now however, I don’t think the husband would be so happy with me being out at sea for 6 weeks each time!

Anyway, I am becoming side tracked….

So, I found myself back in the southern area of the Red Sea, of which the purpose of the trip was to “explore” each of the dive sites between the depths of 40m – 80m. Currently, there are no companies who offer specific technical diving trips to this area, OK, there are a few boats where they could cater for the odd deco dive but nobody is looking specifically at these dives sites though the eyes of the diver who would like to go that bit deeper. We had to find out why. Is it because there is nothing of interest below 40m in this area? Is it because the potential stronger currents pose a safety hazard to divers during decompression? Or is it lack of knowledge of the area? Or is there simply no demand. We at Tekstreme Diving wanted to try and answer these questions….

elphinestone9

The reef systems in the southern Red Sea are absolutely stunning in the shallow water and believe me this continues though to depth, actually, I would say even better in terms of quality of coral growth. As an example, the size and abundance of the Gorgonia fan corals that we were witnessing between 50m – 85m were mind-blowing. You need to trust me when I say it was like diving untouched reefs, reefs where no diver’s fin had accidentally clipped the coral and snapped off an entire branch, no damaged hard corals about from natural processes, this is what we were experiencing. It was amazing. You can see that not many divers are visiting these depths and the currents provide such a rich supply of nutrients that the soft corals especially can flourish.

 Gotasoraya6

A particularly favourite of mine is a narrow tower of a reef, the local turn for it would be a “Habili”. This particular Habili looks like nothing on the surface but is simply one the reefs which is the most rich in life, its an aquarium for all creatures great and small. This cone shaped reef gets wider as you get deeper and provides marine life, colour and excitement all the way down to around 75m. We actually spent most of our dive at 50m watching as grey reef sharks smoothly cruised in and out unfazed by us as we were still and quiet. The world of having no bubbles on a rebreather comes into its own and the pelagics come closer to check us out. There is a potential for much current on these reefs but as these reef systems rise all he way to the surface you will always have a reference to swim alongside as you fulfil your decompression obligations. Plus, we will always have zodiacs to support us from the surface so if any divers find themselves away from the reef they will always be tracked and collected.

 Sirinakawreck2

Within the southern area there are also some wrecks. One in particular is sat at a maximum depth of 50m, this wreck attracts a huge array of marine life and has a great atmosphere. It’s at a nice depth to enjoy a longer bottom time having a scrape around and exploring the wreck in its entirety. There is also another more historic wreck, which is not greater in depth than 30m, but makes a great afternoon dive. Do dive it well it would still require some decompression due to its size so for sure a great feature of the area.

There is talk of another larger wreck within this approximate area but deeper which we aim to do a more specific search for on our next trip to this area. I am always a bit dubious when it comes to listening to tales of sunken wrecks as most of the time it turns out to be nothing, but when I have now had information from a few different sources all talking about a similar location, it certainly gets my attention.

 GotaKebirSouth

Moving a little bit further north there are some reefs that sit on the edge of a deep-water trench with walls dropping vertically down depths. These reefs are fed by a stong consistent currents that suppy the goodness for the corals to flourish. It’s on these reefs as you descend through the depth ranges the types and colours of corals here is changing quite dramatically. The colours of the soft corals are not restricted to the shallow waters they can be found through 50, 60, and 70m. Whip corals, black corals and Gorgonians’ in substantial volumes and sizes can be found at depth. Some of these reefs over the years have taken their toll on safari boats and the wrecks that are left behind may not have an exciting history but, what you find is that over time they have created a mini ecosystem and they attract a wide variety of marine life around the outside and inside. For sure it makes a nice feature of the dive.

 arch3

Of course we can’t be visiting the southern area without a stop at Elphinestone reef. This particular site needs no further exploration from us, this is one dive site that is already included in some of our other existing technical safari trips, but I include it here for those who have never had the opportunity to dive the reef. This finger long reef has dramatic plunging walls to the east and west, with plateaus on the north and south. You can dive to 100m all the way around this reef if you wanted to! Typically, we dive the northern plateau to any depth between 40 – 100m with eyes peeled with the to aim to find either Grey Reef sharks off the tip of the plateau or Hammerhead sharks. Its an area that gets a great current feed and so very nutrient rich. The colours of soft corals across the plateau are some of the best to be found in this area. As an alternative dive to the north, the reef has provided for us a natural landscape feature in the shape of an archway. Running directly under the southern plateau, this natural feature allows you pass from one side of the reef to the other. You can swim through this archway anywhere between 48m – 60m. It is also on this southern side of the reef where you have chance to find the Oceanic White Tip reef sharks patrolling the shallow waters.

Summary

As much as we have had a great week of diving and the exploration of the area at depth has begun there is a great deal more for us to do and hopefully more wrecks and natural features to be found. With the information that we now have, we have put together an itinerary for next year that will return to the sites that we have just visited but will also build in more time for further exploration. This means, for the divers on trip next year, will be just like us and exploring these areas for the first time. Is there a demand for this type of diving, this type of exploration, I absolutely believe the answer is yes.

diveteam

“Exploration is really the essence of human spirit”

Frank Boreman

Trip Details

Dates = 14/08/16 – 21/08/16

Vessel = Emperor Asmaa

Price = 999 euros

Contact info@tekstremediving.com for details on the trip and how to reserve your place.

Cat Braun

Tekstreme Techical Diving

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Tekstreme Safari 5th Jan 2007

Text & photos by Sarah Woodford

How deep It was the coldest January in Egypt for years but Yves and his Rebreather boys from Belgium, Vince and Ron’s open circuit team from Holland, John from England, myself and Paul Vinten from Tekstreme, Lisa and Dion, the resident dive guides, and Anke from Emperor Fleet managed to brave the elements for Tekstreme’s first Safari of 2007!

It would have been easy to brave anything on Emperor Infinity. She is one of Emperor Fleet’s flagship boats and soon turned out to be rather a cushy number…..cosy duvets in every cabin, fantastic food and plenty of it, surround sound movies every night and a crew of 10 who pandered to our every need. Even filling tanks was made bearable with comfy basket chairs, sea view, drinks on call and music on tap, but someone could have turned the heating on out there…

The first night started with Rebreather divers on one table and Open Circuits on the other at dinner; a bit worrying but thankfully that quickly changed during the week! Day one was grey, cloudy and windy with full moon currents and the tide going out – not the best welcome to Red Sea diving but it gave everyone the chance to get their gear sorted out.

Loading the zodiac

Day two, the sky was blue, the sea was calm, and a sunrise dive on the wreck of the Carnatic reminded everyone why they were here. Afternoon, sunset and sunrise dives on Thistlegorm were even better; great visibility, little current and few bubbles…apart from her foredeck where Vince and Ron’s team were practicing skills and drills!

Patrice at Thistlegorm Ron at Thistlegorm

The good weather continued for a cruise across to Gubal Island where the zodiacs whizzed everyone off to the wreck of the Ulysses. The barge at Gubal has always been one of my favourite night dives in the Red Sea. Not having dived it for four years, I just couldn’t resist…..it was even better than I remembered!

Paul at Rosalie Moller

Day Four was one of the highlights…the Wreck of the Rosalie Moller. Tanks had been filled, sofnolime packed, kit thoroughly checked and dive plans scribbled on slates. I woke up in a mild panic at 4am, listening to the wind which had definitely got up overnight. “Paul, what’s plan B?….Rosalie Moller. Paul, what’s plan C?….Rosalie Moller” With other boats, the captains would have shrugged and shaken their heads but I’d forgotten how big the Infinity is and how experienced Captain Achmed. He set off in the dark, cleverly setting a course up to the Ashrafi Islands before spinning the boat in their lee and surfing back down to the wreck. Wake up, we’re at the Rosalie Moller!

Almost no current and some of the best vis I’ve seen on her. We were diving on my personal Holy Grail of Red Sea wrecks. What more can I say. Good dives were had by all and a few of the newbies got first hand experience of managing deco stops with a bunch of other divers on one shotline!

Hebat Allah The weather was not as good for the rest of the trip but this didn’t affect the diving. The Ferryboat wrecks of Salem Express and the Al Kafein in Safaga; one upright, one upside down, an early morning Giftun Drift to make a break from all that steel, and a last dive on the newly sunk Hebat Allah finished the week nicely.

Rebreather divers and Open Circuit Tek divers, some experienced, some in training, scuba divers, and Patrice who wasn’t quite sure with his twin 12 air tanks! They had shallow dives, deep dives, trimix dives and repeatedly came up smiling. Congratulations go to those that achieved new certifications during the week. Thanks go to Lisa and Dion and the crew for holding their ship together while being invaded by this confusing bunch of Tek divers. We proved that January diving can be fantastic…fairly good weather, great visibility on a lot of the dives and best of all, having the wrecks almost all to ourselves with hardly any other boats or divers in sight!

Paul at the Blending panel John on Thistlegorm